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Post by Joe Lyddon on Dec 7, 2011 20:48:24 GMT -8
How is it done?
I have some ideas on the subject BUT, I really do not know how get a Piano Finish.
Can someone please let me know?
Thank you very much.
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Post by cabinetman on Dec 24, 2012 5:25:44 GMT -8
It's actually pretty simple. It's recommended to use a paste wood filler (grain filler), and then a sealer. The idea is to spray a color (usually black), in sufficient coats to get a build that can be sanded to a smooth finish.
Each application can be scuff sanded. Each application should be cured before adding subsequent coats. The final sanding is done in progressively smoother grits of wet-or-dry silicone carbide sandpaper and water. For flat areas, using a block in conjunction with the sandpaper keeps it flat. Grits starting with 220x, all the way to 1500x to 2000x. After that, the finish can be hand rubbed with automotive polishing compounds to get that high gloss super slick finish.
You could also use pumice and rottenstone, but I get better results with the automotive stuff. A dedicated auto body and paint store sells 3M products with a range of numbers from coarse to super smooth compounds.
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Post by Joe Lyddon on Dec 25, 2012 5:34:55 GMT -8
It's actually pretty simple. It's recommended to use a paste wood filler (grain filler), and then a sealer. The idea is to spray a color (usually black), in sufficient coats to get a build that can be sanded to a smooth finish.Each application can be scuff sanded. Each application should be cured before adding subsequent coats. The final sanding is done in progressively smoother grits of wet-or-dry silicone carbide sandpaper and water. For flat areas, using a block in conjunction with the sandpaper keeps it flat. Grits starting with 220x, all the way to 1500x to 2000x. After that, the finish can be hand rubbed with automotive polishing compounds to get that high gloss super slick finish. You could also use pumice and rottenstone, but I get better results with the automotive stuff. A dedicated auto body and paint store sells 3M products with a range of numbers from coarse to super smooth compounds. . Hi Mike, Thank you for the reply! I guess it doesn't make any difference as to what the color coats are; ie, Lacquer, Shellac, etc.? This is what I did... by the seat of my pants: 1. Light seal coat of shellac followed by a sanding taking it off almost 100%, clean-rub. 2. 5-6 coats of shellac with fine hand sanding and clean-rub between coats. 3. 5-6 coats of Deft High Gloss Lacquer with fine scuff sand and clean-rub between coats. 4. Rubbed down good with fine pumice & mineral oil. 5. Rubbed down good with fine Rottenstone & mineral oil. Looked and felt pretty good... but I wasn't sure if I did it right or not. What do you think? (I should have done?) Thank you! Joe
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Post by cabinetman on Dec 26, 2012 7:50:39 GMT -8
Joe, I wouldn't have used the shellac as a filler. IMO, it's too soft of a finish. If you want to fill the grain...use a grain filler. If you want a topcoat of lacquer, use a sanding sealer on top of your prepped surface with the grain filer. Then get your build with just lacquer. Allow each application to cure before wet sanding. I would use the sanding schedule I previously quoted, and water. For the polishing, I prefer to use progressively smoother rubbing compounds. By the time you wet sand up to 1500x to 2000x, it needs very little rubbing to get the high gloss. Here is an example: . .
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Post by Joe Lyddon on Dec 26, 2012 10:03:48 GMT -8
Mike,
Thank you very much...
The next time I have to get That type of finish, I will know what to do...
It's nice to know how to really do it...
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