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Post by cabinetman on Jun 23, 2011 4:34:57 GMT -8
I quit using lacquer about 20 years ago. I say lacquer, the finish that has as a base...ACETONE--LACQUER THINNER. The makers of finishes have used a marketing ploy of calling some waterbase polyurethanes lacquer. This terminology was intended to sell a product. If the thinning of the finish calls for lacquer thinner...it's lacquer. If it calls for water...it's a form of waterbase polyurethane.
I quit using lacquer for many reasons, health being one. It's toxic as all get out. Not only what remnants get inhaled, but direct skin contact, and its ability to get into our bloodstream through any orifice, like eyes, ears, etc.
I've been using waterbase polyurethane with excellent results. It works best when sprayed. I must say that IMO it is as durable as solvent based lacquer, and a whole lot less toxic. It dries very fast, has an easy clean up, and isn't affected by humidity.
So, I think eventually there may be a slow death for lacquer. If you haven't tried WB poly, you might give it a try.
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Post by Joe Lyddon on Jun 23, 2011 9:15:49 GMT -8
That all makes sense... Thank you.
I recently had to put a finish on some cribbage boards I made... The finish had to be like a Piano Finish.
After I developed the base I wanted, I sprayed about 8 coats of blonde shellac with very light sanding after each coat... then let sit for a week or so...
Then, I sprayed about 8 coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer with a very light sanding between coats... and let sit for a week or so...
Using Mineral oil, fine sanded and rubbed down with pumice & rottenstone...
It looked pretty good... darn good... Looks like a piano finish to me... Hope it's OK.
I used to play a trumpet... those musical instruments are finished with Lacquer... They hold-up for years... So, I figured it would be a good choice... That's how & why I picked Lacquer over the shellac.
The spraying was done outside when the wind was not blowing... but as a breeze started to come-up, I sprayed with the breeze... I could tell from the smell that it wasn't good you... I just did the best I could to not breathe it...
Do you think water based poly would give me the same results... for the long haul... for a Piano Finish?
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Post by cabinetman on Nov 28, 2011 14:36:29 GMT -8
Sorry I didn't answer this sooner...I had to take a nap. ;D
WB polyurethane can give the same results as solvent base lacquer. With sufficient build on applications that have dried/cured, I use wet-or-dry silicone carbide sandpaper in smoother grits up to 1500, with water. At that point any smooth auto rubbing compound will bring up a super high gloss. You could also use the pumice and rottenstone.
There's other advantages to using WB. It doesn't blush, and clean up is with water. It dries clear, and stays clear.
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Post by Joe Lyddon on Nov 29, 2011 18:32:54 GMT -8
Sorry I didn't answer this sooner...I had to take a nap. ;D WB polyurethane can give the same results as solvent base lacquer. With sufficient build on applications that have dried/cured, I use wet-or-dry silicone carbide sandpaper in smoother grits up to 1500, with water. At that point any smooth auto rubbing compound will bring up a super high gloss. You could also use the pumice and rottenstone. There's other advantages to using WB. It doesn't blush, and clean up is with water. It dries clear, and stays clear. I'm sure glad you got rested up good... Glad you woke up too! ;D Using WB poly, wouldn't you have to wait a lot longer between coats before being able to apply next coat? Using the spray can I used, it was a wait of Minutes... How is a Piano Finish supposed to be done...? I just did it by what I thought it would be... didn't really know...Thank you... OK, Nap time... ;D
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Post by cabinetman on Nov 30, 2011 7:14:45 GMT -8
Using WB poly, wouldn't you have to wait a lot longer between coats before being able to apply next coat? Using the spray can I used, it was a wait of Minutes... How is a Piano Finish supposed to be done...? I just did it by what I thought it would be... didn't really know...Thank you... With lacquer, it may be dry to touch in minutes, but it's far from cured. You can recoat, when it feels dry, but to sand and rub out, cure time (depending on the weather) could be hours. With WB, it feels dry to touch in 15 minutes, but there needs to be a cure time of several hours to a day. Success with wet sanding and polishing any film finish benefits from allowing each application to cure. You can usually tell by a light touch with the SC sandpaper dry. If it feels grabby, the finish isn't cured. .
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Post by Joe Lyddon on Nov 30, 2011 13:02:06 GMT -8
Yes, I understand that...
But, building up the base... With lacquer, I built up the base by spraying a coat, waiting about 30 minutes, lightly sanded nubs, & sprayed again, etc. until I had 8 coats on the base.
Then, I let it sit to cure for about a week or more... before sanding & rubbing-out.
Was that a good procedure?
What I was trying to get at... was how long would I have wait before applying another coat of WB Poly? Does it have to be Fully Cured before another coat can be applied? If so, that would take a long time for 8 coats, right... It might be worth the time... I don't know... BUT, is that what I'm looking at? A complete Cure between coats?
Any ideas on a Piano Finish?
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